Paris Parfait

New Year's wishes

Photo of a sign above a lingerie shop at The Barbican, Plymouth, England.

As 2008 dawns, my wishes for us all: love and light; good health; prosperity and a more tolerant and peaceful world.

An excerpt from Booker Prize winning author Ben Okri's Starbook: A Magical Tale of Love and Regeneration:

"Many are the ways in which the gods speak to us: through dreams, which we misread, which we do not experience clearly, which we forget, which we wrongly interpret, creating more chaos instead of achieving more clarity; dreams that we act on directly, as if they spoke a literal language; dreams that we fear; dreams that perplex and which we get others to explain to us, when the message and key is with us alone."

"Many are the ways of seeing the future, glimpsing the past. Some stare into crystal balls, into clear waters of prophecy; some read the fall and placement of kola nut lobes in enamel bowls; some read the shapes and direction of the footprint of herons or chickens or rare birds; some read the past in momentary visions had outside time; some use the Bible or other sacred texts; some resort to sorceries and consult wizards that may or may not know the mystery of the stars."

"...Some fly to the moon on the back of beams of light; some wander deaf amongst angels; some consult the ancient oracles and ponder the incomprehensible messages from the gods...Some listen to the prophecies that fall from the mouths of babbling children, or the language of crows, or the accidental words that reach them in marketplaces, or pay too much attention to words said to them by strangers or the insane."

"Such are the perplexities of the ways of man and woman in a world where the past and future do not speak and where the present has not fully revealed itself to our partial-seeing eyes. And thus we live our days between knowing and unknowing; blind and deaf in a vast panorama of revelations, a perpetual theatre of timeless events where history is as much the future as the past, an infinite living book in which all things are present. We live in these wonders and do not see."

Here's hoping we enjoy better vision in the new year! May your hopes and dreams come to fruition.

P.S. My friend Laura has a lovely tribute to Benazir Bhutto here.

The Wife of Bath

The Wife of Bath restaurant and rooms at 4 Upper Bridge Street, Wye, England. For excellent service, comfortable, elegant surroundings and delicious food, this establishment is highly recommended. Our friends Tracy and Alan joined us for dinner; we were all thoroughly charmed. The Wife of Bath is conveniently located near London, Canterbury, Ashford and the Kent Coast. The original expression "the Wife of Bath" came from Geoffrey Chaucer's Canterbury Tales.

A main street featuring some thatched-roof buildings in the medieval market town of Wye, Kent. Two antiques shops featuring Arts & Crafts and English furniture, porcelain and glassware are located on this street.

Entrance gates for Wye College, the University of London.

Gothic leaded windows at the college are accented by cottage garden plants.

The stone-and-brick college of Wye.

An interior courtyard at the college.

The parish church at Wye, England

The historic Church of England Parish Church in Wye, Kent, England.

The modern front door of the parish church.

A cemetery surrounds the main building.

Ancient crosses mark graves beneath a grove of trees.

A Celtic cross in the cemetery.

Another view of the cemetery.

A side view of the church, surrounded by tombstones.

The church's ancient tower and turret.

A stained glass window inside the church nave.

The church's modern altar.

Interior arches and timber beams inside the parish church.

The nativity scene hand-stitched on needlepoint cushions for the church pews.

Parishioners stitched these typical scenes from the town's history as a market town surrounded by agricultural crops and farmland.

A bronze sculpture in the church.

Farmland behind the church and cemetery.

Mourning rituals

"It is from numberless diverse acts of courage and belief that human history is shaped. Each time a man stands up for an ideal, or acts to improve the lot of others, or strikes out against injustice, he sends forth a tiny ripple of hope.” - Robert F. Kennedy

Last night we watched the Emilio Estevez film "Bobby," which after the assassination of Benazir Bhutto, served as a painful reminder of how two of our best hopes were snatched from us right when they were needed most. As a child I was affected deeply by Robert F. Kennedy's death. Sadly, there's never been another leader who captured the spirit and imagination of the American people like RFK. Despite his privileged background, he worked tirelessly to help improve the lives of those less fortunate and alleviate poverty, racism and other forms of social injustice.

Watching the film, I was struck by the extreme contrast of 1968 and today. In 1968 people stood up and protested the war, social injustices and racism; they made their voices heard. Nearly 40 years later, apathy seems rampant in America and few people are doing anything to try to effect positive change. Too many Americans seem to care about nothing but themselves and their own comfort. Yet the gap between the haves and have nots grows ever wider, as our freedoms and civil liberties are curtailed at an alarming rate. What will it take for us to wake up and accept responsibility for ourselves and others?

To match my somber mood, here are photos from an exhibition From the Cradle to the Grave at Castle Museum in York, England.

Mourning dress in Victorian times from an exhibition at Castle Museum, York, England.

In the final "half-mourning" period, women were allowed to wear grey, white or shades of purple.

An accounts book for funeral services and burials.

Mourning cards, photos, a memorial flower arrangement under a glass dome and a doll dressed in traditional mourning clothes.

Hand-sewn funeral garments were typically made in advance. If the deceased lacked his own garments, the undertaker provided them.

The funeral tea comprised primarily of biscuits and port wine was an important ritual in Victorian society, particularly in the north of England.

Special veils, jet jewelry and various accessories were part of the mourning process. Click photo to enlarge and read more about rituals influenced by Queen Victoria that typically were adopted during a two-and-a-half-year mourning period.

A large wicker basket often served as a coffin in Victorian times.

The Burneston Parish Hearse was purchased for £40, 5 shillings in 1908 by the Parish of Burneston near Bedale, North Yorkshire. During the 19th-and-early-20th-centuries, country parishes often bought a bier or small hearse that could be pulled by hand or by a pony. The bier of stretcher inside the hearse was used to carry the coffin from the church gates into the church and then to the graveside. After World War II, hearses were used less frequently, due to motorised transport. The Burneston Parish Hearse was sold to the Castle Museum in 1967.

In memoriam: Benazir Bhutto 1953-2007

Photo of Mosquee de Paris by Jordana Shalhoub.

When a suicide bomb attack in October threatened her life, Benazir Bhutto blamed extremists opposed to democracy, as well as rogue elements within President Pervez Musharaf's government. She demanded an investigation, appealing for the government to seek international expertise in tracing those responsible for the blast that killed 130 people upon her return from exile abroad.

"The attack was on what I represent," Bhutto told the media the next day. "The attack was on democracy and the very unity and integrity of Pakistan. [Those who died] made the ultimate sacrifice for the cause of democracy and the fundamental rights of the people of Pakistan."

And now the courageous Ms. Bhutto herself has made that ultimate sacrifice. It is truly a dark period for the Pakistani people and a tragic loss for the voices of reason and moderation. Ms. Bhutto's voice may be silenced, but her spirit and philosophy survive through her many supporters. They will need to raise their voices collectively, to help combat the forces of extremism threatening Pakistan and the region.

Shining light

Photo of Islamic-patterned fretwork at Mosquee de Paris by Jordana Shalhoub.

Leau Phillips has written a beautiful, poetic essay about how light always finds its way through darkness. I urge you to read it here. Also check out her beautiful photo of a Madonna statue surrounded by hundreds of luminarias.

Speaking of light, our friend Patry Francis can use all the love and light we can send her way. Please keep Patry in your thoughts and prayers.

And now for something completely different

Photo of jellyfish at aquarium in Atlanta, Georgia by Jordana Shalhoub.

You've probably noticed that you've seen more photos than words here lately. That's because I've been a bit under the weather with the flu/bronchitis. Normal programming will resume shortly. Hope you're enjoying the holidays!

Christmas morning in Paris

Pink sky early this morning viewed from our balcony. Merry Christmas to you and yours!

The sun reflecting on windows at St. Cloud across the River Seine, viewed from Hippodrome de Longchamp.

The sun bouncing off a building at La Defense. This photo was shot from the entryway of our apartment building, which is directly across the street from the Bois du Boulogne.

Sun glinting off buildings at La Defense, viewed from the Longchamp racecourse.

Early morning in the Bois du Boulogne.

A convention of black-headed gulls on an ice-filled pond in the Bois.

More birds on Christmas morning in a pond in the Bois du Boulogne.

A Moorhen picks its way through ice chunks in a pond.

Bits of ice in front of a waterfall in the Bois du Boulogne.

Photos by David Holmes

Merry Christmas

Wacky reindeer in a Paris holiday vitrine.

Rabbits in the snow. For an interesting take on French President Nicolas Sarkozy's public behaviour, read John Lichfield's article in The Independent, London.

Marble sculptures at Yorkminster

Marble memorial sculptures honour various historical figures at Yorkminster Cathedral, York, England.

A stone head at Yorkminster Cathedral.

Joyeux Noel

Eastern European folk costumes and crib in this nativity scene at a church square on rue Cambon, Paris.

Wherever you are in the world, hope you are enjoying your holidays!

Christmas in our neighbourhood

Hot chocolate or mulled spiced wine is sold at this booth in a Christmas market in our neighbourhood.

Pere Noel bonnets are sold from this stall.

Lighted paper lanterns at the Christmas market.

Shoppers stroll through the annual Christmas market.

Trees along both sides of the street are strung with lights, echoing those on the Champs Elysees.

Starbursts of red adorn rue Jean-Baptiste Clement.

Christmas market at London museum

A bright star on a giant Christmas tree in the courtyard of the Natural History Museum, Brompton Road, London.

Lights in the trees at the Natural History Museum.

Blossoms framing the courtyard scene.

This 14-foot Christmas tree in the courtyard was decorated by Selfridges, the famous London department store.

Star ornaments in jewel tones adorn the tree.

Five birdhouses are lined up in a booth at the Christmas market set up in the museum's courtyard. An ice skating rink is also open.

Arts and crafts gift items for sale at another holiday booth.

This booth features bulbs and garden gear.

A hand-painted rocking horse and a hand-stitched baby quilt at a booth selling toys.

Red berries surround the entrance to the courtyard.

A view of the front entrance of the Natural History Museum.

Decorative iron gates surrounding the museum.

Quirky little vitrines

Storefront window at Liberty, London. Check out the white ceramic pig.

A leather pig and pigskin boots at Liberty.

A green-lacquered bulldog at Selfridges, London.

A blue dog and blue wire and glass sculptural shoes at Selfridges.

A Moroccan wedding blanket in Paris

Detail of sequinned fringe and hand-woven fringed edge on a vintage Moroccan wedding blanket. This beauitful example of Moroccan traditional handiwork was found by Maryam of My Marrakesh and arrived in Paris this morning. If you're interested in adding a similar wool wedding blanket to your home decor, contact Maryam here. The sequinned-leather babouche were a gift from Maryam.

The birthday dinner

Jordana set the birthday dinner table with her favourite porcelain and Waterford crystal. She said she wanted an "opulent look" and "you can take a picture and put it on your blog, Mommy." (No, those forks aren't in the wrong order, as we didn't have a first course). David made duck with sour cherries, the birthday girl's favourite. And yes, there was champagne and a fine wine. In lieu of birthday cake, Jordana requested an "icebox roll," a family recipe from her late great-grandmother Lucille.

Jordana greatly appreciates all the lovely birthday greetings and good wishes about her eye surgery. She's feeling much better and thrilled to be able to see without glasses or contact lenses.

The birthday girl

After her post-op doctor's appointment, Jordana, the smiling birhday girl - who now has near-perfect vision - and her boyfriend Keith pose for a photo at Concorde. It is Keith's first visit to Europe.

Walking along rue Cambon, I saw these frames and portraits leaning against the exterior of the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz. I thought maybe they had been thrown out, but Jordana said similar things were being loaded onto a van.

A clothed monkey, antique doll and silver candlelabra at an antiques shop on rue Cambon, Paris. As soon as I saw the porcelain doll's exquisite antique lace dress, I thought of Sandra Evertson and her remarkable collection of vintage dolls, with antique fabrics and trims. Sandra's first Bird Cage Couture doll recently flew to Paris, where she is adjusting happily to French life. Will post photos and more info soon.

Another view of the monkey and doll.

Vintage red leather ring and jewel boxes are piled in a silver filigree urn at a rue Cambon antiques shop.

One rather eventful day

I am writing this from the waiting room in a Paris clinic, while Jordana's about to have lasic eye surgery. She's sitting in a closet-like cubicle in a massage chair "relaxing." She's being very brave about this procedure. Having worn glasses or contacts since she was a child, she's ready to ditch the glasses - even when they're very stylish frames. The surgery is an early graduation present.

Meanwhile, my friend Gabrielle got up at the crack of dawn to drive from her home near Versailles to Charles de Gaulle. All this to pick up Jordana's boyfriend Keith, arriving on a flight from Boston. So it's quite an eventful day for our household - and truth be told, a little nerve-wracking. Did I mention I haven't met the boyfriend?

Alas, there's been a delay in the surgery scheduled before Jordana's. The doctor is here, but the operating room isn't available. This means more anxiety for Jordana; we weren't to know by the time the surgery begins, she will have waited more than 90 minutes in that little cubicle, listening to noises, footsteps and snatches of conversation all around her. So much for the "relaxed" intent of the massage chair.

A grown woman sitting on a banquette facing me is playing a videogame - a noisy videogame, which does not help to promote a calm atmosphere, when everyone's tense - with one exception. The guy she's accompanied has fallen asleep in his cubicle, while waiting for surgery. She's taken a photo of him on her cameraphone, no doubt to tease him later. This reinforces my theory that men can sleep through anything, because it's a very lively place.

Then the woman's portable phone rings and a loud conversation ensues among the caller, the (now wide-awake) guy in the cubicle and the woman in the waiting area. I am ready to scream. I take Jordana a magazine and tell her she has to wait a bit longer. She isn't happy.

High anxiety
fueled by loud technology;
the wrong time and place.

Gabrielle leaves me a voicemail to say "the bird is in its cage." Later I discover not only did she pick up Jordana's boyfriend at the airport, she took him out for coffee and croissants. She said Keith was sweet and charming and "very excited to see Jordana and anxious about meeting you." I decide Gabrielle is a saint.

At last they take Jordana off for surgery. I've watched two guys who were wearing glasses pre-surgery, come out smiling, sans lunettes. This gives me hope that the surgery won't have the after-effects I've been worried about, although I know it isn't a walk in the park - something Jordana's convinced herself it will be.

Later, Jordana comes out of surgery squinting and feeling unwell. The doctor assures us all is fine. He said Jordana will experience some pain and a burning sensation for about four hours and should use special eyedrops, every time she wants to touch or rub her eyes. The receptionist phones a taxi and Jordana keeps her eyes shut all the way home. In between regaling me with horror stories about the surgery itself, she asks how far from home we are. I try to soothe her by reciting familiar landmarks; 15 minutes, 10 minutes, two more blocks until we arrive. She holds on to me and keeps her eyes closed, opening them only briefly to throw her arms around Keith.

Keith and I introduce ourselves briefly. He's taller than I expected. Still wearing my coat, I get Jordana's eye drops, to alleviate the burning sensation. She puts on her sunglasses, then sits in a dark room while I fix a late lunch. When the food is ready, she asks me to lower the blinds, so the dining room will be in half-light and she keeps her sunglasses on. I threaten to take a picture; she is not amused.

A little while later, David phones and I tell him I have to call him back, as "I'm taping Jordana up." She and I both have a good laugh at how this sounds. After I taped protective plastic lenses over her eyes, she's sleeping. It is hoped when she wakes up, she'll be feeling much better. Tomorrow is her birthday and we start the day at the opthamologist's office for a post-op check-up.

And the boyfriend? I'm happy to report, so far, so good!

Update 6:40 p.m. - Jordana's feeling much better and is walking around exclaiming, "I can see, I can see! It's amazing!"

Photo of "Christiana" floralina doll designed by the fabulously-talented Constance Muller.

Jewel tones at Selfridges

16 holiday vitrines from the London department store

Police remove homeless tents opposite Notre Dame

"If you don't protest and just ask for things politely, no one listens. We are obliged to demonstrate our anger. There is such a thing as a healthy rage." - Pierre Levené, secretary general of Secours Catholique, Paris

On Saturday French police dismantled a homeless encampment of red tents opposite Notre Dame. As tourists watched in disbelief, police moved in with tear gas to disrupt homeless and their supporters camped along the quays of the Seine. Les Enfants de Don Quichotte (the children of Don Quixote) erected the tents to protest the French government's failure to honour promises made to resolve a previous protest. Of 27,000 new lodgings promised, only 13,000 have been provided.

Augustin Legrand, an actor and founder of Les Enfants de Don Quichotte told the crowd Saturday that France has 200,000 homeless people. He said hundreds of SDFs (sans domicile fixé or homeless people) will sleep rough in Paris this Christmas.

Housing minister Christine Boutin, who as a backbench deputy supported last year's protest, rejected Legrand's claims. She said 700 new places for homeless people have been created in Paris, with 150 currently unoccupied. But Paris Mayor Bertrand Delanoe and the Catholic Church supported Saturday's protest. Pierre Levené, secretary general of Secours Catholique, a church agency which assists the homeless, said thousands of places are lacking in halfway houses and emergency shelters.

Meanwhile, Legrand said further instant encampments of red tents are possible, unless the government provides further aid. "This minister is not capable of putting a strong programme for the homeless in place," he said. "She has no feeling for their suffering. Most of the halfway houses that were promised have never appeared. If they would rather we set up camp in the far end of the Bois de Vincennes, where we cannot be seen by anyone, that's what we will do."

Opposition politicians have complained about the "intolerant" and "repressive" approach taken by French President Nicolas Sarkozy's government. The red tent encampment set up along the banks of the Canal Saint Martin last winter was tolerated by then-president Jacques Chirac's government for more than three months.